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C50_36427_402620712803_1571265_n_1466181926 DF313 Quote
12/27/2016 9:07 AM

Hey I just had a couple questions for a possible build. I really want to build a bike from top to bottom and go through everything. I have never done it before, but that's not a bother you have to learn somehow. My questions would be, 1. I assume that these bikes usually end up costing a bit more once they are finished than if I just bought a decent already running bike. Is that correct? Also, are there any bikes that parts are particularly easy or hard to find? I was thinking any major brand 2 stroke from the last 15 years should be easy to find and somewhat less expensive, but I know nothing on the subject so I could be wrong.. Any tips you could throw out that might help me avoid some costly pitfalls?

Thanks in advance!

C50_thca0u0nkk_1388583665 DJS721 Quote
12/27/2016 9:19 AM

IMO: when you buy a 10 plus year old bike used, even if the bike is in great shape (according to the listing...), you should go through most everything to assure the integrity of the main functioning systems. Suspension, engine, wheels, brakes....so it just is my approach to spend less on the donor and more on the build. This is my approach, and I end up with the key areas of the bike exactly how I want them. Even a bike in good shape for more money will require you to look at some spend to get things right.

In the end, no magic formula but my approach is spend less initially (within reason) and more on the build. Watch out for major cost areas like a swingarm nearly cut in half by the chain, welded crankcases, dry suspension, cobwebbed air filters, drooping footpegs...

For my money, a late model YZ or RM will give great performance and are still somewhat reasonable to buy used. KX's are quirky, and Honda's seem to get more money in our area of the country. Not a fan of 10-15 year old KTM's, just my opinion they are costly and strange handlers

Good luck with your project

C50_last_dog_2013_8_1374424287 BAMX Quote
12/27/2016 10:21 AM

In my opinion, you can never count on a nice looking bike actually being what it seems. If you buy a beater and tear it to the frame, you know exactly what is in it. Sure, there are those sweet deals from a guy who bought it new and lost interest after a couple of rides but, those are few and far between. You are way more likely to buy a clean looking bike that ends up having wasted bearings, way more hours than advertised, or been blown up before and not properly repaired.

I have done it a couple of times and the main thing is to buy the bike right. If you don't get in a rush, you can get one cheap. As for the parts, I would say that they are all pretty readily available less maybe KTM and Husky. A lot of the time, that part (say a rear brake pedal) is actually on a couple different models (RM and RMZ's). Partzilla is pretty handy for sorting that out. Plus, there is a huge supply of quality aftermarket parts these days. Check out my build "04 RM125 build for the rest of us" . I am trying to both show the build and give some tips as well.

C50_image_1499104766 JWACK Quote
12/27/2016 10:44 AM

Start with the cleanest low hour bike you can find. Not matter what the brand. You don't want to get into a total money pit. I won't buy a used bike that has had a bottom end done. But I'm really picky.

C50_14956417_1185083941580125_8728825518097334358_n_1484087406 gpnewhouse Quote
12/27/2016 1:06 PM

My experience has been stay away from old KTMs, really used to struggle for parts on my old 03 sx125 and that was about 5 years ago. KTM make some great bikes and I personally thought the 04 to 07 KTM 125s were some of the best bikes around for tight tracks but no use when you can't get parts.

C50_36427_402620712803_1571265_n_1466181926 DF313 Quote
12/27/2016 8:41 PM

Thanks again for all the advice guys, should i get something up and going I will be sure to include it here!

C50_jessy1_1471467436 CarlinoJoeVideo Quote
12/27/2016 11:38 PM

Definitely feel like the rebuilds cost more than you think. Also depends how OCD you are. When I pull my bike down to the frame, I'll regress's every bearing on the bike and scrub everything with scotch bright. It's a fun and rewarding process!

C50_gd_1399323318 garagedog Quote
12/28/2016 8:20 PM

I like to start with a bike that has a blown engine rather than a running bike. Seller is usually willing to get rid of the bike cheap. Its easier to talk the price down since you cant test ride and test out the trans, clutch, suspension etc.

The first full build could cost you in the tool department.

I've learned to take everything apart, clean it all real good first. Then make a list of all parts "needed" and prices. Then you can prioritize the "want" items.

I have found Honda's easiest to work on and the most enjoyable (better nuts/bolts). Yamaha seems to have the cheapest oem parts compared to others. Suzuki parts can be expensive.

A bargain rebuild (ebay/CL shopping for used parts) can be a fun challenge as you try to stay on budget. I found it easy to find and sell Yamaha 2 stroke parts (2002 and newer).

Take your time, be patient, enjoy the process.

C50_gd_1399323318 garagedog Quote
12/28/2016 8:24 PM

Great resource for just about anything...
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/

Best OEM prices that i know of....
http://www.powersportsdiscount.com/page/oem-parts

C50_last_dog_2013_8_1374424287 BAMX Quote
12/28/2016 9:17 PM
garagedog wrote:

Great resource for just ...more

I would add partzilla in the resources category. It has a couple of things going for it. When you click on the part in the list, it takes you to another page. That page usually has an actual pic of the part. If it is a bolt, it usually has the length or you can figure it out from the pic since that has a ruler in it. Also, it has a list at the bottom which has other models that the part is on. That can be really handy when searching for cheap parts on Ebay as it expands your possibilities. Be careful to make sure that your model year is the same part number as another year. It lists every bike that the part is listed in its list. It is a little confusing but for example, The RM125 list covers 2001 to 2007. When you pick a rear brake for an 04, it shows a bunch of bikes the the part is supposedly on. The problem, is that it picks up all of the RM's because they are all in the same list 2001 to 2007. If you check the numbers, The 04 specific part number is only good for that year.

Another tip for Ebay. Search all ways of describing your bike RM125 and RM 125. You will be surprised at what you find sometimes. Also, if it fits say the 250 and 125, check them all. I have found a lot of parts cheaper because they were listed for the 125 and not the 250 or vice versa.

C50_logo_1483011097 Voyagesbooth Quote
12/29/2016 3:39 AM

Hie i have a question that i love to do bike ride and make a good timing with the speed but after an incident happened with me bad thing that is i injured very badly in my leg so now i amn't able to do make an ride so now i am working for Flight they helped me alot at my bad time.

C50_14956417_1185083941580125_8728825518097334358_n_1484087406 gpnewhouse Quote
12/29/2016 4:57 AM
garagedog wrote:

Great resource for just ...more

BAMX wrote:

I would add partzilla in ...more

Cool I didn't know of anywhere that did that. Cheers for the heads up.

C50_thca0u0nkk_1388583665 DJS721 Quote
12/29/2016 6:46 AM

"Another tip for Ebay. Search all ways of describing your bike RM125 and RM 125. You will be surprised at what you find sometimes. Also, if it fits say the 250 and 125, check them all. I have found a lot of parts cheaper because they were listed for the 125 and not the 250 or vice versa."

That is great advice, I discovered the same thing on eBay and also craigslist. It is amazing how many ways sometimes people will express the model, and sometimes parts only show up when you use the various versions

C50_last_dog_2013_8_1374424287 BAMX Quote
12/29/2016 8:15 AM
DJS721 wrote:

"Another tip for Ebay. ...more

I would also add another tip for Ebay that saved me a ton of cash and kept me riding.

If you need a bunch of small stuff like pipe hangars, hose guides or clamps and even larger bolts like suspension or axle, search for your bike model and the word "lot". With there being a bunch of guys on Ebay who buy bikes and strip them, there are a lot of very reasonably priced random parts lots. A few years ago when I did my original 125, I was able to but one for $35 with free shipping that had just about every bolt and small part like those pipe hangars, banjo bolts etc.. It has saved my ass a number of times at the track and in the desert and on my build.

C50_36427_402620712803_1571265_n_1466181926 DF313 Quote
12/30/2016 12:22 PM

All really great tips, many of which I'd never have thought of, thanks for all the help! Now the hard part, waiting for that bike to buy to appear...

C50_thca0u0nkk_1388583665 DJS721 Quote
12/30/2016 4:53 PM

Good luck with your pending project. Try craigslist but shop carefully; its easy to go see a bike and get excited into an emotional decision. Try and stay objective, its sometimes best to say no and walk away if your not sure about a purchase. This is my experience speaking, I am guilty of buying something that wasn't quite what I wanted and had buyers remorse...

Still, most any bike you buy can be brought back, its all about how much work or dollars you want to commit to

Good luck!

C50_20170207_165726_1486568953 smashingpumpkins167 Quote
12/30/2016 7:38 PM

Watch the for sale section on this site like a hawk. I found a jackpot of a deal in an 02 yz125 for only 550 that just needed a carb rebuild. There are always good deals popping up. I rebuilt mine from the ground up with a total cost of about 3000. It would have been more like 2000 if I wouldn't have swapped out the old forks and shock.

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