Posts
1267
Joined
1/3/2011
Location
US
Micahdogg
4/2/2018 6:12pm
4/2/2018 6:12pm
Edited Date/Time
11/11/2020 3:25am
I had been considering a big bore two stroke for a couple years and finally pulled the trigger on one a couple weeks ago. The thread was posted over here:
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/1992-CR500R-price-que…
However, I'm going to use this thread to document the restoration. I'm not following a real strict budget on this, but I am trying to keep it all under $3000. And naturally I want it to look really good and be comfortable for me (tall seat, bars up, peg mods, etc...). I'm also trying to redeem myself from having dragged out my 2002 YZ250F restoration for WAY WAY too long. I want to have this CR500R done asap, so that I can actually enjoy it this year.
Here it is as I bought it. I thought it was nicer that it really was (isn't that how it always goes?)
And after sitting for a year, it came to life with some old stale gas. It actually ran pretty decent:
https://youtu.be/vTPna54QRpc
After last night, this is how it looks:
A close look at the wire harness showed some unique additions - the green and yellow wires that run to a battery-tender type plug end. I guess this could be used to charge a phone or something? I'll remove it.
Engine looks good, just need to do a lot of scrubbing. No case damage found yet, fingers crossed! The ignition rotor sure looks beefy though, like its been modded with weight.
The only real surprises at this point was the lack of coolant. There as only maybe 1/4 coolant in the bike. I suspected a blown head gasket, but it looks as if the left side cylinder head hose was leaking (at the head). Which would also explain why the engine was so wet and dirty.
I also found that someone welded in a skid plate on bottom of the frame. It did not appear to be a "fix" for damage, but rather just someone's prior fab work. My first instinct was to remove it, but I decided that I'll keep it. It actually looks to be really well done, the welds were ground down on the exterior for a nice flush look, and a nice pocket was cut in the bottom for oil change access. It should look good after powdercoat and I was going to buy a skid plate anyway, so I can't really understand why I would waste my time removing it.
I'll post updates as they occur.
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/1992-CR500R-price-que…
However, I'm going to use this thread to document the restoration. I'm not following a real strict budget on this, but I am trying to keep it all under $3000. And naturally I want it to look really good and be comfortable for me (tall seat, bars up, peg mods, etc...). I'm also trying to redeem myself from having dragged out my 2002 YZ250F restoration for WAY WAY too long. I want to have this CR500R done asap, so that I can actually enjoy it this year.
Here it is as I bought it. I thought it was nicer that it really was (isn't that how it always goes?)
And after sitting for a year, it came to life with some old stale gas. It actually ran pretty decent:
https://youtu.be/vTPna54QRpc
After last night, this is how it looks:
A close look at the wire harness showed some unique additions - the green and yellow wires that run to a battery-tender type plug end. I guess this could be used to charge a phone or something? I'll remove it.
Engine looks good, just need to do a lot of scrubbing. No case damage found yet, fingers crossed! The ignition rotor sure looks beefy though, like its been modded with weight.
The only real surprises at this point was the lack of coolant. There as only maybe 1/4 coolant in the bike. I suspected a blown head gasket, but it looks as if the left side cylinder head hose was leaking (at the head). Which would also explain why the engine was so wet and dirty.
I also found that someone welded in a skid plate on bottom of the frame. It did not appear to be a "fix" for damage, but rather just someone's prior fab work. My first instinct was to remove it, but I decided that I'll keep it. It actually looks to be really well done, the welds were ground down on the exterior for a nice flush look, and a nice pocket was cut in the bottom for oil change access. It should look good after powdercoat and I was going to buy a skid plate anyway, so I can't really understand why I would waste my time removing it.
I'll post updates as they occur.
Interesting cylinder nuts..
The Shop
Got the left leg buttoned up with fresh Honda OEM sliders, seals, dust wipers, 5w Maxima oil filled on the high side, new springs preloaded at 4mm. I started on the right leg and immediately figured out what broke in the fork cap.
The clicker has a slot on the other end (inside the cap) that engages a tab on the needle. The slot broke away from the clicker. Deep down inside the center hole on this picture you can see some brass. The game plan is to drill into that, tap it for a 3mm bolt, then modify a bolt with a slot at the end. I'll thread that into the brass with loctite and hopefully have something to adjust the needle.
"When Eibach was still making their 997 model of fork springs, it was 500mm in length. It was marketed for the 1991 - 1994 KDX250."
Also, the catalog only listed one spring rate, 35kg and progressive.
IT would appear someone took out the .38 kg, 512mm long stock springs for a set of .35, progressive rate 500mm length springs with 16mm worth of washers, which basically gave it 4mm preload.
I'm installing a set of Racetech 3951 springs which are .44 kg, 512mm long with a single 4 mm preload washer on top. Long story short, I feel much better about the upgrade.
I found a water valve at the hardware store for $6.50 which had enough brass to whittle down in the lathe. My neighbor chucked it up in the lathe and we started to replicate the old piece. We made it about 85% of the way before it broke Oh well, there is enough material to give it another go. At least I can breathe easy knowing that I'll be able to fix this part!
I also found out that the tab, which broke from the old clicker, is nearly identical to a schrader valve tool. So we'll use that for a model for the new one.
Can never have too many images.
Thank you for taking the time to detail yours.
I'm leaving this link here, which shows part interchanges between CR500R years.
http://www.oem-cycle.com/HONDACR500BIKEID.shtml
Will it look OEM or are you putting a full graphics kit on it?
Is it possible you have some springs that may have sacked out a little? 1991 - 1992 KX125 / KX250 fork springs were 512 mm.
AWESOME JOB on the fuel cap work.
Pit Row
Thanks, it felt really good to get that fixed. Hopefully this weekend I can get a rolling chassis together.
I'll have to pull the upper steering bearing back out and replace it though. It looked like hell, but worked perfectly fine. Then I cleaned it and it now looks good and works like hell
That's a hell of a 'lift' you've got going there, and, I assume you've fairly tall bars to come.
It's really good to see a Steel frame being rebuilt.
You can see in the riding vid up top that my hands are in my lap. Leg room is tolerable though.
I already did the rear wheel a couple weeks ago with fresh bearings, tire and stock style rear sprocket. Now I'm just waiting on the swingarm to be cleaned and get new pivot bearings installed.
Oh and World Record tire change for me tonight too! It was one of those rare nights where 20 minutes later I've got a tire on and it didn't fight me at all. Didn't even make a blood donation.
Installed the wheel with no drama, but the front fender took a bit of work. It came with two "suggested patterns" in the plastic for where to drill. The patterns were about 1/2 inch apart from each other. I have it in the forward position and had to dink around with it forever to get the thing sitting where I wanted it
Then I mocked up the front number plate to see how much modifying it would take. The 90-94 front plate in flo-red was hard to find for under $45. The 95+ front plate was under $20 and easily available, so I took the cheap way. I also like this style better, so that was a deviation I didn't mind making. I was told that it would fit, and yeah, if you don't mind fabricating all new mounts it fits. The upper mount had to be moved about 3/4 inch higher so I used my angle grinder to crank out a quick-n-dirty bracket. I still need to make a bottom mount.
I wish I could close the gap to the fender a hair, but the plate is sitting right up to the brake line bracket. So I'll probably leave it as is. (FUN FACT - I used that piece of aluminum to stir logs in a bon fire last year. I watched it glow red and bend in half. Next morning I pulled it from the ashes and bent it straight, figuring I may use it for something)
Lastly, I got the fork guards installed.
Here is a frustrating vid of the bash plate.
https://youtu.be/4zhP5qDi3Fs
I ended up with something that will work good enough for me to forget about for now. Just so people know, a 95+ CR500R number plate will fit a 92 after you do this stuff. But at this point, I suppose any number plate will "fit."
Interesting looking back at the multi-tapered upper fork legs from that era...
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