1995 YZ-250 long rod. Tom Morgan porting magic. :)

FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
1/17/2018 1:56pm
Zach_K wrote:
Will you be doing any engine work? Also have you found any alternate foot pegs? Mine are pretty beat up Looks great man can’t wait to...
Will you be doing any engine work?

Also have you found any alternate foot pegs? Mine are pretty beat up

Looks great man can’t wait to see what route you go with
Hey Zach,
Yeah, I'll be doing the motor. Something is jacked up in the tranny so I'll be splitting
the cases. I won't get to that for a while because I want to get the chassis kinda squared away
and then I'll have to shelf this project for a little bit while I get caught up on other stuff.

Not sure on footpegs yet, either! Mine came with some older aftermarket ones that
are in good shape, but definitely scream "1995". Smile I'm going to keep looking to see if a later model
crosses over or something.
Hondas4Life3
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Louisburg, KS US
1/17/2018 4:02pm
FWYT wrote:
Hey Zach, Yeah, I'll be doing the motor. Something is jacked up in the tranny so I'll be splitting the cases. I won't get to that...
Hey Zach,
Yeah, I'll be doing the motor. Something is jacked up in the tranny so I'll be splitting
the cases. I won't get to that for a while because I want to get the chassis kinda squared away
and then I'll have to shelf this project for a little bit while I get caught up on other stuff.

Not sure on footpegs yet, either! Mine came with some older aftermarket ones that
are in good shape, but definitely scream "1995". Smile I'm going to keep looking to see if a later model
crosses over or something.
Those look like Procircuit steel foot pegs to me.
FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
1/20/2018 8:48am Edited Date/Time 1/20/2018 8:50am
The other day was a plastics resto day. Honestly, it wasn't super necessary because UFO still makes plastic for this bike. But, going back to my original post, I want to learn a few things along the way.

The stuff was well yellowed and the tops of the fenders in particular were HEAVILY oxidized. I started with a fine grit sanding sponge with lots of soapy water and Soft Scrub. Then broke out the car detailing tools using polishing compound at a low speed. Finished with a clear coat polish at a little higher speed with constant movement. Came out pretty good!

I'll eventually get new plastic and graphics but the plan is to ride it for a while (when that day comes) and get things dialed in, THEN put on the new plastic and graphics.






FWYT
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1/20/2018 8:49am
I'm still so interested as to what went wrong with this bike. I hadn't noticed this when I was tearing it down as I was just chucking all the hardware in a box, but there was some good hardware used here and there. These must have been in spots where the tweaker-recent-owner couldn't see and, therefor, take off to sell for a new crack pipe or whatever. Interesting!



The Shop

Zach_K
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6/13/2017
Location
Sneads Ferry, NC US
1/26/2018 9:12am
FWYT wrote:
The other day was a plastics resto day. Honestly, it wasn't super necessary because UFO still makes plastic for this bike. But, going back to my...
The other day was a plastics resto day. Honestly, it wasn't super necessary because UFO still makes plastic for this bike. But, going back to my original post, I want to learn a few things along the way.

The stuff was well yellowed and the tops of the fenders in particular were HEAVILY oxidized. I started with a fine grit sanding sponge with lots of soapy water and Soft Scrub. Then broke out the car detailing tools using polishing compound at a low speed. Finished with a clear coat polish at a little higher speed with constant movement. Came out pretty good!

I'll eventually get new plastic and graphics but the plan is to ride it for a while (when that day comes) and get things dialed in, THEN put on the new plastic and graphics.






Nice job on the plastics! I think mine are to far gone. They are cracking and brittle
FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
2/8/2018 10:05pm
Got the front brake figured out. Using a Honda CRF master cylinder, hose and caliper with
a 270mm rotor.

I'll only be able to spend limited time with it the next month or so but will be picking away at it
here and there.

I'm so torn on what color to go with it! When I started the project, I had it firm in my mind of going
with purple frame route. But I'm really starting to lean towards that "works" blue and white
scheme they had. Decisions!!



FWYT
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2/20/2018 9:10pm Edited Date/Time 2/20/2018 9:27pm
Zach clued me in that a later model rear brake master cylinder bolts right on so I snatched one up!
This one is off of an '04. I did have to grind a little on one of the frame tabs that was just a little
too close to the banjo bolt. Much cleaner set up and it eliminates the remote reservoir and hose which
makes me really happy because now I can get rid of those clips that hold the hose and that flimsy tab
for the reservoir. Thanks, Zach!

I have had no luck finding a right side frame guard (I got hold of a left side one) so I got one off
of a '98 and sorta massaged it a bit. I think it will be passable, though I'll keep my eyes out for a '95.

1
FWYT
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3/15/2018 9:56pm
Well this was kind of comical..... When I got the bike, I just saw a project bike I wanted to work on and a bunch of jacked up parts and a locked up tranny. I broke down the bike and stuck the motor over in the corner of the garage. I've spent all this time getting the chassis somewhat dialed and I'm about to send it out to the powder coater.

So it was time to look at the motor. I clean it off and what do you know, there is the plate under the cylinder indicating It's a long rod motor! Can't believe I didn't notice this a long time ago! hahaha See? I knew this bike had been owned by someone decent in the past before some tweaker crackhead got hold of it!

Anyway so I started taking things apart and it looks primo inside! Piston and cylinder look fantastic, clutch plates look good and so on. Something's goofy with the tranny so I'll have to split the cases and see what's going on in there but for now I'm laughing. This bike suddenly has become even more bitchen than I thought! Smile

FWYT
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3/15/2018 10:16pm
Hey, what is the hot set up for this seal since it is now essentially too short what with the spacer under the cylinder? Did guys just RTV it up?



make1go
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BF
3/17/2018 4:07am
sandman768 wrote:
Broken bolts happen on these old bikes, Before I perform a teardown on a new project, I clean it good, then put large peice of cardboard...
Broken bolts happen on these old bikes, Before I perform a teardown on a new project, I clean it good, then put large peice of cardboard under it & spray every nut/ bolt/ axle/ stud ect with PB blaster & let it soak for at least a day...it helps. With that said, I just snapped a cylinder stud off a Bike I"m working on, I soaked it, heated it, but it still snapped, all the other studs came right out... Sometimes bolts just snap...be thankful you don't have a seized swingarm bolt to deal with...
Yup one time i had to place a small bottle jack to spread the frame a little so i could get a hacksaw in and cut the ends. Wasnt fun but ive ruined frames trying bash the bolt out with big mallets.
FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
3/19/2018 8:02am
Make the bike as orriginal as possible..purple frame is beautifull!!! I just bought a very low hour 94 250.[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/03/17/249948/s1200_83D5CD23_2757_4E53_AB02_315A1BCC3638.jpg[/img]
Make the bike as orriginal as possible..purple frame is beautifull!!! I just bought a very low hour 94 250.

Well, what with the late model suspension, it's going to be far from original. I've decided to go with
the blue and white scheme, with a few adjustments.
FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
3/20/2018 11:52pm
Cases split. I really don't see any obvious damage or strange wear, so I'll have to clean things up and monkey around to see what was going on to cause the transmission to be locked up.


Anyone know what causes this gold-ish stuff? Comes off with a scrubby pad. 927?
No, it's not bearing cages; everything feels very tight and looks really, really good inside.
I am very pleasantly surprised. Shit, once I get the tranny figured out, I'm just putting in rings
and putting it back together!!


Also did some shock shim stacking today. I am no suspension guru but I love learning and figuring things
out. That stuff takes years. After reading mucho threads and stacks that people are running, I'm going with the long-standing method of "Gawddamn, let's try this and see what happens! "





FWYT
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3/21/2018 10:29pm
A-ha! Well, this will certainly cause things to be not so smooth. 5th gear had welded itself to the main shaft. Interestingly, everything else looks good. Found replacements on eBay so those are on the way.

danman
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Readstown, WI US
3/22/2018 6:17am
FWYT wrote:
Cases split. I really don't see any obvious damage or strange wear, so I'll have to clean things up and monkey around to see what was...
Cases split. I really don't see any obvious damage or strange wear, so I'll have to clean things up and monkey around to see what was going on to cause the transmission to be locked up.


Anyone know what causes this gold-ish stuff? Comes off with a scrubby pad. 927?
No, it's not bearing cages; everything feels very tight and looks really, really good inside.
I am very pleasantly surprised. Shit, once I get the tranny figured out, I'm just putting in rings
and putting it back together!!


Also did some shock shim stacking today. I am no suspension guru but I love learning and figuring things
out. That stuff takes years. After reading mucho threads and stacks that people are running, I'm going with the long-standing method of "Gawddamn, let's try this and see what happens! "





I could be wrong, but I think that gold shitty stuff is from using gas with ethanol, rather than the non-ethanol premium or race gas. It should wipe up, but the carb might be a nightmare. That stuff can get pretty nasty.
Lightning78
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6313
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12/12/2007
Location
Huntington Beach, CA US
3/22/2018 12:06pm
FWYT wrote:
Well this was kind of comical..... When I got the bike, I just saw a project bike I wanted to work on and a bunch of...
Well this was kind of comical..... When I got the bike, I just saw a project bike I wanted to work on and a bunch of jacked up parts and a locked up tranny. I broke down the bike and stuck the motor over in the corner of the garage. I've spent all this time getting the chassis somewhat dialed and I'm about to send it out to the powder coater.

So it was time to look at the motor. I clean it off and what do you know, there is the plate under the cylinder indicating It's a long rod motor! Can't believe I didn't notice this a long time ago! hahaha See? I knew this bike had been owned by someone decent in the past before some tweaker crackhead got hold of it!

Anyway so I started taking things apart and it looks primo inside! Piston and cylinder look fantastic, clutch plates look good and so on. Something's goofy with the tranny so I'll have to split the cases and see what's going on in there but for now I'm laughing. This bike suddenly has become even more bitchen than I thought! Smile

Told you.... :Laugh:
RCMXracing
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848
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Location
N., TX US
3/23/2018 7:06am
Great thread. On the steering stops with your newer gen clamp is there room to put a stop on the backside, side of frame...what we see on modern bikes? Weld a small plate for strength. This was something I was considering if I do a restomod build, keeping my ‘94 CR250R stock for now.
FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
3/23/2018 12:44pm
RCMXracing wrote:
Great thread. On the steering stops with your newer gen clamp is there room to put a stop on the backside, side of frame...what we see...
Great thread. On the steering stops with your newer gen clamp is there room to put a stop on the backside, side of frame...what we see on modern bikes? Weld a small plate for strength. This was something I was considering if I do a restomod build, keeping my ‘94 CR250R stock for now.
Yeah, on mine there is a ton of room. I had considered it but decided to keep with the simple route.

On that subject, one thing I noticed is how far back the radiators are. Like if there were no steering stops, the
fork tubes would hit the frame without even touching the radiators.
Lightning78
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Location
Huntington Beach, CA US
3/23/2018 1:36pm
Make the bike as orriginal as possible..purple frame is beautifull!!! I just bought a very low hour 94 250.[img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/03/17/249948/s1200_83D5CD23_2757_4E53_AB02_315A1BCC3638.jpg[/img]
Make the bike as orriginal as possible..purple frame is beautifull!!! I just bought a very low hour 94 250.

When I was like 15 years old I remember seeing the ad for the 1994 YZ250 and from that day forward I've been in love with the look of this particular bike maybe just because I wanted one so bad when I was a kid. I knew the Big Bike Honda CR 2 strokes were great bikes as well and I ended up getting the much revered 1993 CR250 a couple years later. This is pension was God awful on the 1993 CR250 but what a motor it had my God the only thing was after Springs revolving I could never forget the shark or the forks to behave well enough to be written aggressively however one of these days I want to get a 1995 or 1996 Honda CR250 and rebuild or restore it and I'll end up putting the 2004 and up Honda Showa 47mm twin chamber Forks that were used on their bikes for years and years. This way, regardless of wether i get a 1993 1994 1995 or 1996 il confidently be able to run a good and modern front suspension setup ....something that last GREAT generation Honda CR's was severely lacking it will be an inexpensive and dramatic upgrade to the bike for sure. I say 2004 and up bec in 2004 Honda settings from the factory had Showa forks with a 10mm larger piston and valving stack for dramatically improved oil flow and it showed compared to my 2002 CR250 forks which were the same fork (Showa 47mm twin chamber) but had internal changes that were an amazing improvement. I had a 2004 CRF450 and have had 2 - 2004 CRF250f's and bone stock w/o any spring, valving OR oil height changes they were incredibly PLUSH and could take a hard hit, impact, and were butter soaking up or handling low or high speed jumps even with sharp transitions that would normally cause a G-Out. They were great in their stock setting and never had to consider revalving them.
FWYT
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3/23/2018 10:34pm
Today was a case cleaning day. Stripped the paint and put in some time with a brass brush and red Scotchbrite pad.
I wasn't about to go totally nuts grinding off flashing and seams and I don't want it looking like some sort of Glamis bike. Just a nice brushed look that will still be somewhat easy to take care of after riding.



FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
3/27/2018 4:19pm Edited Date/Time 3/27/2018 4:21pm
I've always wanted to monkey around with this. A little DIY nickel plating.
For the motor mount plates in particular, I didn't want to powder coat them
but I do want some corrosion resistance. Here's my DIY set up. Pure nickel anode ($6.00),
nickel sulfate with distilled water ($10.00), Crock Pot at thrift store ($3.00). 1.5V "D" battery.
Keeping it simple.

Brush finish for the part and get it clean AF. Left it in there for an hour or so for good measure
with occasional agitation. It comes out of the solution sort of a dull grey but a little buzz
on the polishing wheel and it's just what I'm looking for; a sorta shiny matte finish.
I'm going to have to do more parts!! CheerfulCheerful



FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
4/10/2018 10:41pm
Going to lace up a new rear rim. The existing spokes and nipples are strangely in perfect shape so I will re-use them to save some $$$. (Cuz we're going over budget QUICK! hahaha)

Better part of an afternoon to un-lace the wheel and then clean up the hub all pretty-like.









Jrewing
Posts
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1/4/2014
Location
AU
4/10/2018 11:28pm
FWYT wrote:
I've always wanted to monkey around with this. A little DIY nickel plating. For the motor mount plates in particular, I didn't want to powder coat...
I've always wanted to monkey around with this. A little DIY nickel plating.
For the motor mount plates in particular, I didn't want to powder coat them
but I do want some corrosion resistance. Here's my DIY set up. Pure nickel anode ($6.00),
nickel sulfate with distilled water ($10.00), Crock Pot at thrift store ($3.00). 1.5V "D" battery.
Keeping it simple.

Brush finish for the part and get it clean AF. Left it in there for an hour or so for good measure
with occasional agitation. It comes out of the solution sort of a dull grey but a little buzz
on the polishing wheel and it's just what I'm looking for; a sorta shiny matte finish.
I'm going to have to do more parts!! CheerfulCheerful



What's next? Making molds and casting parts haha
FWYT
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4/10/2018 11:37pm
Jrewing wrote:
What's next? Making molds and casting parts haha
Haahahha. No, this is enough! Actually, because of this project, I'm trying to learn to weld better. I mean, I can hack some stuff together, but it's not very pretty. That will be another post another time!
FWYT
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4/23/2018 9:21pm
Got around to lacing up the rear wheel today. Like I said, spokes and nipples were primo so I re-used them.
Wheel bearings were also in perfect shape so fresh grease and good to go.
sandman768
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Saratoga Springs, NY US
4/24/2018 1:50pm
Hub cleaned up nice, how did you do it..?
FWYT
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5/20/2018 11:18pm
sandman768 wrote:
Hub cleaned up nice, how did you do it..?
First used Alumabrite. (Which actually seems to discolor cast aluminum parts.)

Then I've been having really good luck with a soft brass wire wheel on a LOW speed
drill or grinder/polisher or whatever.

Finish with red Scotchbrite by hand.
FWYT
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San Diego, CA US
5/20/2018 11:22pm

Sweating in main bearings. Getting ready for motor assembly.
Did a test install of the tranny (without the crank) because I've always heard the
Yamahas are difficult. But this one went together super easy and went through all the gears just fine.

Jrewing
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AU
5/21/2018 12:29am
Good idea I will do a no crank build to check tranny as this is my first full bottom end build.

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