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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
Every bolt that I removed I kept and have bagged up so I can put the bike back to bone stock if I want to.
The total weight of the bolts removed came to just under 1.5KG. With titanium weighing 40-50% less and aluminium weighing 50-60% less than steel, I can roughly say I have saved around 750 grams or 1.6lbs from the bike by swapping out OEM steel bolts.
I pretty much swapped out everything on the bike apart from: axles, swingarm pivot, linkage/shock bolts, sprocket bolts, internal engine bolts, engine mounts, rear brake pivot bolt.
Is it worth it? Some will argue not. Will the weight savings make me faster? Probably not. However a Ti/Aluminium bolt will not corrode. And in the 4+ years I've been buying Ti bolts I have yet to strip a thread, round off or shear 1 bolt. Some of the bolts in this bike have been used on a few previous builds. So as a long term investment Ti is pretty damn good!
I bought my bolts with the long term idea like you. I basically purchased every titanium bolt that I knew would go on my next new KTM/Husky, when the new bike comes basically take off new stock bolts, replace them with titanium and then put my brand new bolts on old bike.
Being in Europe Who do you use for bolts? EDIT: I see EBay but any others?
I use Racetech titanium and pro bolt usa
I use eBay for about 90% of my bolts.
For the more specialist bolts I use Pro Bolt in the UK. Their warehouse is about 5 miles away from where I work which is handy!
PBad - Yup, I ate the whole tub. Had to put the bolts somewhere! Washed it down with a few ales too
The Shop
Yeah no trouble, I can make you a set.
Email me at rusboyles@googlemail.com and we can sort it out.
The G2 throttle cam is highly recommended. Gives you that extra throttle control in the first half of the throttle turn. The 2 cam options give you tunability to get the power delivery you desire, then if you want it back to stock simply re-fit the stock cam and its back to normal. Only take a few minutes too. Not necessary for MX but great for trail/enduro
Will hopefully report back with a good result! I've had limited testing on the bike so expecting there to be a few adjustments to make after the weekend but I'm confident its somewhere near.... fingers crossed!
I finished 10th in my class and 42nd overall out of 166 riders. Top 10 was the goal coming in so happy to come away with that result.
Overall the bike was really good. I kicked the bike over once at the start of the race and that was it. Even with 3 crashes the bike kept on running, all thanks to the rekluse clutch set up. It was also awesome in the slick areas, I was able to leave the bike in 2nd, sometimes even 3rd and just roll the throttle on gently and get the power to the ground nice and smooth.
I went with the 10% G2 throttle cam but will try the 20% next time for a little extra throttle control. The RM is still a little peaky in some areas, particularly the super tight stuff.
Suspension was good, just a few clicker adjustments and it will be spot on.
Really looking forward to the next round!
As you can see, I was definitely the odd one out! Its a KTM/Husky fest in the Enduro world. It was as if I had 2 heads when I took the bike down the scrutineering!
Bringing Suzuki back into Enduro for 2018!
Pit Row
Enojoy it mate!
Bike came out looking absolutely awesome. Congrats on th ebuild and enjoy it.
Nice number btw
The KYB's are set up for MX and the stock Showas have been revalved for Enduro. I didn't want to make the RM just an Enduro bike, as its so much fun on an MX track. Granted it will take a few hours but I can get it moto ready again pretty easily.
The KYB forks are for an RMZ, so I have to use the front wheel from the RMZ 450 when I run them in the RM. And also the PC clamps as the RMZ forks are larger diameter, so won't fit in the stock RM clamps.
Thanks! And yeah 32 is a great number
Almost... the shock lengths are identical. However the area above the upper shock mount is much beefier on the KYB compared to the stock Showa. As a result the KYB just fouled on the upper shock mount, and contacted the tube that the subframe main bolt goes through.
I simply ground a bit off the shock at the area which was contacting. I removed around 1mm total. There is still tons of meat around the upper shock bolt on the shock so I'm not worried about a failure there at all.
I removed the spring and cycled the shock through the stroke while fitted to confirm it clears and it does. Still close but no contact.
So it does fit but requires some very minor modification to make it fit comfortably.
She's been sat in the garage fully prepped, adjustments made and ready to go.
I picked these up recently though!
Moose Racing Titanium pegs. These are cast pegs but are very light and much sharper than the OEM steel pegs on the bike at the moment.
I also got a carbon rear brake guard... mainly because it looks super trick!
Stock RM - Bearing is raised from clamp base
RMZ Neken - Bearing is flush with clamp base
Resulting in clearance issue - a simple 2/3mm spacer under the bearing would sort this
Although the RMZ bump stock on the clamp contacts the RM frame before anything else, I would still highly recommend getting proper bump stops made for an RMZ clamp set to avoid any nasty frame damage in a big crash.
Not the best pic but you can see the Pro Circuit clamp set doesnt suffer with the same problem due to a raised bearing design. So therefor if you're going to go for an RMZ clamp, get a Pro Circuit one.
RMZ and RM shocks are all interchangable. 05+ RM125 and 05+ RM250 use the same shock, linkage, swingarm set up so shocks are the same. As above, some RMZ shocks may require some light material removal for clearance. I've fitted stock RMZ and Ohlins RMZ with no issues, but Stock KYB RMZ shocks require modification.
The upper clamp has STC09450 19021555 and lower has STC09450 19021558.5 stamped on it if you want to do a little research
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