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3
Joined
12/27/2019
Location
AU
Matt_Becket
12/27/2019 3:04am
12/27/2019 3:04am
Edited Date/Time
12/31/2019 12:05pm
I’m new to owning a 2 stroke , I bought a new 2019 gas gas ec300.
Now the guy in the shop told me to use motul 10w 40 for pre mix. Since I bought the bike it has not been idling properly, I’ve been reading online and I’ve found out I could have done damage to the bike using this oil. The bike currently has 4 hours and I’ve only ran a full tank with the 10w 40 after the bike ran out with what the shop put in.
I’ve now drained the tank and will be going back in the shop tomorrow to see why they told me to use 4t oil in the bike. I’m asking on here if there would be any severe damage done to my new bike from this oil.
Thanks
Now the guy in the shop told me to use motul 10w 40 for pre mix. Since I bought the bike it has not been idling properly, I’ve been reading online and I’ve found out I could have done damage to the bike using this oil. The bike currently has 4 hours and I’ve only ran a full tank with the 10w 40 after the bike ran out with what the shop put in.
I’ve now drained the tank and will be going back in the shop tomorrow to see why they told me to use 4t oil in the bike. I’m asking on here if there would be any severe damage done to my new bike from this oil.
Thanks
You could be lucky , but i would inspect true exhaust port first.
I would not run it. I would get some yamalube R
The Shop
I guess, oil is oil to some extent... if you put a quantity of any oil in petroleum it will by virtue become more lubricative than straight petrol. But you must know your ratios to get it right.
That said, all the time there’s two-stroke oil on the market & available, why would you even think about using something else??
Usually 30 weight but I doubt your motor has any sort of damage. Just drain the tank and carb and start fresh with some proper mix.
10-40w 4T is for the gearbox. Someone misunderstood something somewhere.
2-stroke oil has a tough job; it needs to maintain film strength in a harsh (gasoline) solution, provide a cooling and lubricative effect in one piston stroke, and then be completely vaporized and exit the engine along with the exhaust. As you may have guessed, no oil can do that perfectly, so even the best 2-stroke oils are a compromise.
Regular engine oil, however, has different flash points, different additives, and is not designed to vaporize instantly. It will therefore clog up your engine with excess carbon and sludge. You may notice a lot of black goo coming out your exhaust (common for 2-strokes, but amplified when running 10W-40.) This may be why you are experiencing an idling problem. Motor Oil is also less efficient at staying "oily" in a gasoline bath, which is what you're doing when premixing it.
I wouldn't worry too much about engine damage - yet - but switch over to a good 2-stroke oil immediately. Drain your fuel and start fresh (try to minimize the mixing of the oils). Here are some of my favorites and some that I've heard good recommendations about:
Bel-Ray H1R or MC-1
Maxima K2
Motul 710 2T
Yamalube 2R
Honda HP-1
Matt,
Switch to a 2 stroke oil. Any bottom of the barrel 2 stroke oil whatsoever will be better than a 10W-40 4-stroke oil used a premix.
The lubrication is different; there are different requirements for a 2-stroke oil that a 4-stroke oil just won't have because:
a) it would be severely detrimental to 4-stroke engine's lubrication and
b) there is absolutely no need for a 4-stroke oil to have those attributes
For all those reminiscing, yes, there was a time when a 30wt engine oil could be used for premix. That time is what we in the industry call "the past". We are no longer in that time; just as we are no longer in a time where we load coal into our locomotives and don't lace our medicines with cocaine for its "healing properties".
As others have mentioned, either you or the salesperson were confused about the recommendation. The 10W-40 is for the transmission, not for premixing into the fuel. Switch to a 2-stroke oil for the premix and do it at the right ratio and be on your way. You probably didn't do any permanent damage in 1 tank, and any sludge or deposits will likely sort themselves out over time with a decent oil in the mix.
As a kid in the 80s-90s I lived in the country and ran Penzoil two stroke outboard oil because it was readily available. My dad's rationale was that if it's good enough to protect a 1$5K two stroke outboard, it would probably be fine for a dirt bike. We never had any issues with failures. Point being, I think even outboard oil would be better than 10W40.
I think the dude at your dealership just had his wires crossed.
Pit Row
I just shed a couple tears I think.
Why in god's name would you do that , when you could of just bought a good recommended 2 stroke oil? I'm not an engineer or any kind of oil expert , but there is a serious difference in the way those oils burn I would think.
I don't get or understand some of the things people do to their bikes , but this is just full on stupid in my eyes.
Sometimes mistakes happen.
In this situation, it was far from catastrophic. Luckily.
Motor oils still burn cleaner than castor oils, which is why many people used them over castor oils before “2 stroke oil” was a thing.
This, above, is my new favorite all time vital MX comment! Congrats. That was beautiful.
before premix, old timers used motor oil as such.
fwiw, on break in, motor oil is not a bad thing. it actually helps seat rings to wall. then pre mix there after.hope this helps.
I’m just wondering if there would be any significant damage done to the bike.
I have proper 2 stroke oil now and of course I’ll be using that.
I have no idea why the guy in the shop told me to use the oil he sold me and no I did not get confused with the gear box oil as we were talking about mixing ratios at the time.
Obviously this has nothing to do with this thread other than the fact that some true old-timer will probably remember doing this.
When asked if he would run a similar mix in a modern 2T motor, he just laughed. Given the availability of modern 2T oils and modern engine designs that breathe crankcase compression into the transfer ports, you'd have to have your head examined to run 4T oil IMO....
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