Posts
913
Joined
12/5/2014
Location
FIN
FI
sebastianer
12/2/2017 4:09am
12/2/2017 4:09am
Edited Date/Time
12/16/2019 5:00am
how did you guys like the older models ktm sx 250? i know the forks where bad but you can always change that.
how was the sock and the bike in general ? was it reliable?
how was the sock and the bike in general ? was it reliable?
The pre 2015 have the cc forks which are cheaper and easier to get right than the 4cs. They are really good when setup by a reputable tuner for your weight and ability. I think this generation of bike is the most under rated. Go for it
The 2015 got the not so good 4CS fork.
The forks before the 4cs are not bad, but I ended up doing a KYB conversion.
Filter cage needs replacing with something like a DT1. Stock cage can shake loose. They are thinner than the current model as well.
1.5 out on air screw
42 slow jet
170 main jet
NECJ needle
40:1
Red spring on power valve, 1/8 from flush
I found the Bill's pipe and silencer worked great.
The Shop
At first I wanted my 07 RM 250 back but after re valving the forks it was a whole new bike. I used the RM needle and I had to go leaner than what everyone else says on the pilot
The only thing I've broke is the stock pipe...but I raced 250 SX's back in 00-02 and the stock pipes always cracked.
I can't tell the difference between good and bad suspension and have only done basic maintenance once a year. I think I blew one fork seal a few years back. Footpegs were done at 150 hrs, new pegs sit very tightly so no frame wear. Lost a couple of engine bolts too.
The first time I had my subframe apart I noticed some wear from sand getting between the aluminium and plastics. I taped the subframe with some number background and the last time I checked no new wear.
Another is that the boots rub the subframe on the left side so i just zip ty around it.
Stock exhaust Got a minor crack in the mount tab. Replaced whit a Pro Circut and used gasket sealant on the orings and silencer joint.
I replaced the Front forks whit Honda Forks that was a lot better than the stock forks
I replace 1 piston every year to be safe
I have not touched a top end or anything internally.
I have had issues with bleeding the front brake. Approx at the end of the year I spent 2 different winters spent hours trying to bleed it and perfect the method of doing so. Turns out on my 3rd winter I bought a syringe and backbled it .......... holy shit in 2 minutes it was amazing.
Findin neutral is a bit tough when stopped and in gear. I normally switch to neutral while im rolling just before I intend to stop.
Ive had p3 carbon pipe which was SICK.... until I hit a tree stump that was hidden and the force bent (not dented) the pipe and broke the exhaust flangeport. Cost me $200ishCAD to replace... now I dont use the p3 pipe id rather dent pipes and get them repaired instead of bending the mounting points etc
Subframe wear is true! Plastics ground my old one down and had cracks 1 inch above the lower mounting bolts by the frame where it gets thin. My dad and I riveted a backplate to it to gain strength.
Never bled clutch, never greased swingarm bearings yet lol (doin that this winter)
SSS suspension revalve
Love the bike.... loctite is key
Of course this can happen with any bike. Just something to keep in check.
I went from a 2007 RM250 and the ktm was better in every way except for maybe the forks. More power, better brakes, turned in to corners as well but drove better out of them. It had a different feel in the cockpit though and i just never felt as comfortable.
I like my current yz250 better than the ktm. It just fits me better. Little engine work, bigger front brake and flywheel weight and it's a better bike imo
Somehow still on the stock clutch too, crazy! I do spend a fair amount of time checking for loose bolts. . . And yes I do find some.
Pit Row
i was going to look at one the weekend but it got sold.
Is the WP CC fork that seems to be on the eu models good ? can it be setup good with just revalving ? has never ridden a bike with cc forks.
But great bike. Vibe like crazy but have tunable engines. Set the squish, run high quality fuel, play with the power valve. I wasn’t ecstatic about the flex of the frame while rowing through rollers around a corner, but we have sand tracks here so it was amplified. I’m sure it would have been a welcomed cushion on a harder pack track.
Suspension wise: I had FC rework the forks and they were much better, if not a bit harsh. They installed the bladder in the shock to mimic the Japanese bikes, which helped a shit ton. The piston would bind in the WP shock and the bladder floats. It kept the tire engaged at all times through small chop.
More motor than you need, great handling, very tunable, hydro clutch.
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