Posts
2334
Joined
7/31/2010
Location
Merritt Island, FL
US
EastFlorida
5/13/2014 4:31pm
5/13/2014 4:31pm
Edited Date/Time
7/27/2018 9:50am
I saw a post the other day and I've had a lot of FTR club members ask me how I mounted my GoPro on the chin bar without making any cuts into the helmet. I took some time and put together a few pics and instructions. This may or may not work for your helmet, but at least it may give you some thoughts to solve issues I haven't experienced.
First, I use this GoPro mount. I'll call it the "J" mount for lack of a better term.
I remove the three small screws underneath to separate the J arm from the base clip
I drilled two small holes in the J arm and select my mounting hardware (fender washers, small washers, screws and lock nuts.
I removed the screen, foam and padding from inside the chin bar. In the case of this helmet, I did not have to remove the plastic trim around the helmet mouth vent. I position the J arm, install the screw and fasten it from inside with the fender washer, small washer and lock nut. Ensure that your screw isn't too long or you'll have to cut it down.
This pic shows the chin bar foam and padding reinstalled.
You will need to use a short extension on the J arm. If you don't you'll only be seeing your tank and bars. It needs to be angled up a little and the extension will allow that.
Here is the finished product. No cutting or drilling into the helmet required...
In the example above, I plan to tweak the mounting position down just a little more for my son. On my Suomy, I don't even know it is there.
I've performed this same install on Suomy, Fly and Bilt (Cycle Gear) helmets. I've had to tweak each install a little, but the basic principle is the same. On my Suomy, I had to remove the plastic mouth vent trim and I used two holes and hardware to mount it. I had to do this due to a larger opening and to prevent it from potentially rotating.
There are many advantages to mounting it this way. At first I was leery fearing the added weight - NON ISSUE!
This angle produces a much better video perspective... (you also appear to ride faster LOL!)
This is better protected for those riding/racing woods/hare scrambles...
You can hear the rider talking! This is so cool... Here's an example of my son talking as he is riding... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rr0xIA7vbI
REMEMBER, if you're getting roost on your goggles, wipe off the camera. Much easier to do than trying to reach above your head. My video of the Mud Muckers GNCC round 1 in FL is a perfect example of how I was able to keep recording despite horrendous mud conditions... Watch for a bit after we get into the swap in the woods... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfBNFQzUOhA
I've seen a lot of chin bar mounts that need brackets, cuts, etc. I hope some of you find this useful and let me know if there are any questions. Try it out, you can always remove it with no difficulty. I'm betting those of you running them on top most likely will be converts!
First, I use this GoPro mount. I'll call it the "J" mount for lack of a better term.
I remove the three small screws underneath to separate the J arm from the base clip
I drilled two small holes in the J arm and select my mounting hardware (fender washers, small washers, screws and lock nuts.
I removed the screen, foam and padding from inside the chin bar. In the case of this helmet, I did not have to remove the plastic trim around the helmet mouth vent. I position the J arm, install the screw and fasten it from inside with the fender washer, small washer and lock nut. Ensure that your screw isn't too long or you'll have to cut it down.
This pic shows the chin bar foam and padding reinstalled.
You will need to use a short extension on the J arm. If you don't you'll only be seeing your tank and bars. It needs to be angled up a little and the extension will allow that.
Here is the finished product. No cutting or drilling into the helmet required...
In the example above, I plan to tweak the mounting position down just a little more for my son. On my Suomy, I don't even know it is there.
I've performed this same install on Suomy, Fly and Bilt (Cycle Gear) helmets. I've had to tweak each install a little, but the basic principle is the same. On my Suomy, I had to remove the plastic mouth vent trim and I used two holes and hardware to mount it. I had to do this due to a larger opening and to prevent it from potentially rotating.
There are many advantages to mounting it this way. At first I was leery fearing the added weight - NON ISSUE!
This angle produces a much better video perspective... (you also appear to ride faster LOL!)
This is better protected for those riding/racing woods/hare scrambles...
You can hear the rider talking! This is so cool... Here's an example of my son talking as he is riding... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rr0xIA7vbI
REMEMBER, if you're getting roost on your goggles, wipe off the camera. Much easier to do than trying to reach above your head. My video of the Mud Muckers GNCC round 1 in FL is a perfect example of how I was able to keep recording despite horrendous mud conditions... Watch for a bit after we get into the swap in the woods... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfBNFQzUOhA
I've seen a lot of chin bar mounts that need brackets, cuts, etc. I hope some of you find this useful and let me know if there are any questions. Try it out, you can always remove it with no difficulty. I'm betting those of you running them on top most likely will be converts!
Thanks for sharing your idea.
Yeah, I noticed a difference in attitude when I started racing hare scrambles...
The Shop
And when you go up a hill, as opposed to your visor mount you can see!!!!!!!!!
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