Related:
Create New Tag
gharmon gharmon
11/12/2013 11:54 AM

I am working on my sons 03 RM 125. It has Showa forks btw. Okay, I'm reassembling the compression dampening unit. After adding the recommended amount of oil, I install the compression dampening unit into the dampening rod with the rod fully extended and tighten according to spec, I then pump the rod several times per instructions. The first unit stayed fully extended when done and sat against the wall out of the way. I do the exact same procedure on the other dampening unit. The only difference here is this will one will extend on it's own all the way except about two inches (the other one will fully extend on it's own) I can then pull it the additional couple inches and it will hold there. Once I sit it down it sinks about 2-2.5 inches under it's own weight.

The manual says to redo this section if it doesn't fully extend. I've done it like times now. I'm still getting the same results. Any ideas what's the problem? Is something else at issue here?

Thanks

| Quote
beamer beamer
11/12/2013 12:24 PM

Im wondering if possibly there is still air in there

| Quote
Knoby Knoby
11/12/2013 1:10 PM
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1/Suzuki/RM125/2003
You will need the top three parts under the "twin chamber replacement parts" section 1/2 way down the page. Just had the same problem with my showas and they made it feel like a new bike. Also would recommend a Pivot Works rebuild kit while you're in there.

RTFM & AYFV

| Quote
gharmon gharmon
11/12/2013 1:33 PM
Knoby wrote: ...more

Well I used an All Balls rebuild kit (seals, bushings, O-rings) Is that the same thing? I doesn't include anything on the actual compression dampening unit though.

| Quote
gharmon gharmon
11/12/2013 1:35 PM
beamer wrote:

Im wondering if possibly ...more

I was wondering the same thing so I stroked the rod several times more (sounds nasty don't it. lol) to try and bleed out any extra air. I'm still getting the same results

| Quote
gharmon gharmon
11/12/2013 1:43 PM
Knoby wrote: ...more

If I replace those parts are they all on the compression dampening unit or do I have to break down the actual dampening rod unit (the part that telescopes) to assemble those parts?

| Quote
Knoby Knoby
11/12/2013 2:06 PM
Knoby wrote: ...more
gharmon wrote:

If I replace those parts ...more

Yes you have to disassemble the inner chamber / damper assy. It's not an easy job but if you're a competent diy'er and take your time it will come to you on how it comes apart. Use heat on the reservior rod seal, that thing is a SOB! The all balls kit should be the same as the PW kit, but neither have the seals you need.

RTFM & AYFV

| Quote
gharmon gharmon
11/12/2013 2:43 PM
Knoby wrote: ...more
gharmon wrote:

If I replace those parts ...more

Knoby wrote:

Yes you have to ...more

any special tools needed to break it down? Also, any tips on how to get it apart. My Suzuki manual states to take it to the dealer.

Those 3 O-rings (6 total for both sides) cost $51+. Is it just me or does that seem like a lot of bank for six freaking O-rings. I'm not saying I wont buy them but shit.

| Quote
Knoby Knoby
11/12/2013 3:14 PM
gharmon wrote:

If I replace those parts ...more

Knoby wrote:

Yes you have to ...more

gharmon wrote:

any special tools needed ...more

Yes, to do it properly you need some special tools but I managed to do it with just the rudeimenary ones I have in the shop without damaging anything; vice grips, puches, chisels, HEAT GUN / MAP TORCH, etc.... Not sure where you got that price but for the damper rod / reservior seals it only comes to $45.96 on their website. Cheaper than a brand new assembly through the factory!

RTFM & AYFV

| Quote
RideJBI RideJBI
11/12/2013 7:16 PM

You have a leaking cartridge.

The twin chamber is a sealed and pressured damper. Anytime you have seals sliding over a surface, over time the seals will wear and fail resulting is cartridge oil/pressure loss

This is a very common problem among all twin chamber forks although it is more common among Showa then KYB or WP.

You need to replace the fork free piston seal, fork cartridge seal, and fork cartridge bushing. Rebuilding the Showa twin chamber is not an easy task if you do not work around suspension a lot. The picture on the fork cartridge rebuild service page will show you how the cartridge seal head and the compression body look if disassembled.

My website carries the parts you need and also provides a fork cartridge rebuild service for individuals that only need the cartridge rebuilt, not the entire fork.

Fork Free Piston Seal
Fork Cartridge Seal
Fork Cartridge Bushing
Fork Cartridge Rebuild Service

| Quote
JM485 JM485
11/12/2013 9:45 PM

I had a similar problem with my Showas, except mine would not extend at all. It turned out that the bottom seal was bad on the dampening rod, so I sent the rod to Race Tech by itself (to save on labor) and it was pretty cheap to just have them fix it. I didn't have the tools or knowledge to do it myself, so if you aren't comfortable, sending it to them could be a good option. Also, use OEM fork seals. I used the Allballs seals and blew them out again in two rides.

Make Hillclimb Great Again

Ratbeach Racing

Instagram / YouTube: @485Josh

3dpmoto.com



| Quote
Knoby Knoby
11/13/2013 12:00 PM
RideJBI wrote:

You have a leaking ...more

JBI that's it!!! I would have posted a link to your website but for the life of me I could not remember where I got my seals from. Thanks for the tech advice you gave me a few months back (over the phone) when I had to rebuild my cartridges. gharmon, definetly go with this guy. Great cust service and fast shipping.

RTFM & AYFV

| Quote
gharmon gharmon
11/20/2013 8:14 AM

Hey fellows I have now ordered my parts from race tech. I watched a couple videos from youtube and they mention the drilling. The only video I saw the guy says to drill till the filings get long and squiggley. Maybe that works for some of you guys but I need something a little more concrete, like a depth to drill.

The guy says to use a 9/64th bit (got that) and he uses a 17mm allen wrench to break it loose (goona have to go get that, don't have one that big). So can anyone tell me a depth I should drill that thing.

Thanks guys,

Gerald

| Quote
gharmon gharmon
11/21/2013 7:55 PM

Looks like I F*#ked up. I drilled to deep and it went all the way thru into where you stick the 17 mm tool. This is below where the oil seal is but from everything I've read I just ruined the whole cartridge. Is just the end of the cartridge replaceable (the part that houses the seal I was trying to replace)?

Since the area where the drill bit went thru is below the oil seal I put oil back into the cartridge just like you would if you were putting it back together. t leaked no oil at all? Since it's below the seal will this cartridge still be useable?

If have truly ruined it will the cartridge out of my 07 RM 250 work? This 03 RM 125 I just F*^ked up is my sons and I hate messing their shit up. If the one in my 07 will work I will just use it on his 03 and go find me one on ebay.

Thanks for any help.

Gerad

| Quote
Knoby Knoby
11/22/2013 2:58 PM

You're fine. Those are called "speed holes." It's cheaper than a works kit.

RTFM & AYFV

| Quote

Post a Reply

Cool Wink Smile Tongue Laughing Shocked Sick Angry Blink Sad Unsure Kissing Woohoo Grinning Silly Pinch Sideways Whistling Evil Dizzy Blush Cheerful Huh Dry