The forks on my dad's 2015 Honda CRF450 need a service and there aren't any videos or much info I could find on servicing these forks. Rocky Mountain has a good video on the PSF-1 but I'm not sure how different the internals are. They don't look horrible to work with but I have never worked on suspension before and wonder if any of ya'll have serviced these forks and if you had any tips. There's a weird OEM Honda tool in the Manual being used and was wondering if anybody knew what to use instead of that because I'm sure it's expensive. Also what fork oil does this bike take? 5W? I'd like to note that we've had bad luck with the OEM Honda seals on this bike for some reason and are going to try SKF. Very frustrating paying $200 for a service and only going three rides before they are leaking again. The OEM Honda seals on my 2017 are almost a year old.

Improper fork alignment can cause fork seals to leak prematurely.

There is a special tool for cartridge disassembly. Sdi, race tech, and rocky mountain may sell it. Those are a different service proceedure than psf 1, the honda maual outlines this well. That was a short run design, only on honda and zuk for couple of years. It's critical to follow the bleeding proceedure to have the forks perform correctly.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

The forks on my dad's 2015 ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

The forks on my dad's 2015 Honda CRF450 need a service and there aren't any videos or much info I could find on servicing these forks. Rocky Mountain has a good video on the PSF-1 but I'm not sure how different the internals are. They don't look horrible to work with but I have never worked on suspension before and wonder if any of ya'll have serviced these forks and if you had any tips. There's a weird OEM Honda tool in the Manual being used and was wondering if anybody knew what to use instead of that because I'm sure it's expensive. Also what fork oil does this bike take? 5W? I'd like to note that we've had bad luck with the OEM Honda seals on this bike for some reason and are going to try SKF. Very frustrating paying $200 for a service and only going three rides before they are leaking again. The OEM Honda seals on my 2017 are almost a year old.

If your interested in a set of PSF1 forks in great shape let me know robinmac82@yahoo.com

m21racing wrote:

There is a special tool ...more

m21racing wrote:

There is a special tool for cartridge disassembly. Sdi, race tech, and rocky mountain may sell it. Those are a different service proceedure than psf 1, the honda maual outlines this well. That was a short run design, only on honda and zuk for couple of years. It's critical to follow the bleeding proceedure to have the forks perform correctly.

Good info, thanks. What's the bleeding procedure?

Bump.....
What fork oil do I need for this bike??
Got all my parts and tools just confused on what oil to use. 5W? 10W? I don't know the difference. Or if anyone has used Honda's oil which SS? Would really appreciate some help as there is very limited info on these forks. The manual has good step by step procedure but I'm still confused on the oil because it only lists a KYB part #

KYB 01

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1065/42684/Kayaba-KYB-01M-Fork-Oil

Or maxima 85/150, Golden Spectro Cartridge fluid 85/150.....all considered 5w and close on specs

You want a 5w

colvin227 wrote:

KYB 01

...more

colvin227 wrote:

KYB 01

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1065/42684/Kayaba-KYB-01M-Fork-Oil

Or maxima 85/150, Golden Spectro Cartridge fluid 85/150.....all considered 5w and close on specs

You want a 5w

I saw that and figured it was what the manual referring to, seems a little pricey. My question is, what would the equivalent oil be from Maxima or Honda?

The maxima racing fork fluid 85/150 (blue label) or the Honda Pro HP5 are good cost effective option. If you didn’t want to spend the money for the KYB 01 then the maxima (blue label) is what I would go for.

colvin227 wrote:

The maxima racing fork ...more

colvin227 wrote:

The maxima racing fork fluid 85/150 (blue label) or the Honda Pro HP5 are good cost effective option. If you didn’t want to spend the money for the KYB 01 then the maxima (blue label) is what I would go for.

Okay now I see, Maxima Blue 85/150 converts to 5wt which is what we already bought. I just wanted to confirm, thank you!

Finally got it started tonight. I now see the point of the damper rod holding tool shown in the manual. We went ahead and ordered the socket that goes with it thinking it was just a normal 30mm but it’s hollow and so is the rod holding tool so you can go over the rod to get to the nut. We also don’t have a 14mm Allen so it’s on hold until we get the rod holder to go along with the socket. I noticed motion pro and Race Tech make them but they aren’t for this socket.

Okay...

So the PSF-2, the second generation of the KYB air fork, is like an open bath KYB fork without the spring.

Meaning, it has a semi closed cartridge on the bottom with the rod connecting to the cap.

Doing a fork seal and bushing replacement would just mean removing the cap and separating the tubes. Doing a full oil change would mean removing the cartridge and that means the right tool for removing the base bolt (base valve assembly) as well as holding the cartridge. Both are shown in this photo.

The thing with the t-handle tool is that it's a very deep socket that needs to accommodate the height of the seal head and rod.

I'll post some additional photos after this one...

One last thing...don't be a schmuck and use a steel tool on any pretty external aluminum part. Leaving marks is the sign of crappy work.

One of the best tool to have in your box is an aluminum adjustable wrench.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/an-wrenches-adjustable

Get some knipex pliers. They smooth jawed and steel. I use the adjustable 44mm unit. I can take out the tac/sff bv's and not leave a mark. All in the technique.

DaveJ wrote:

Okay...

So the PSF-2, the ...more

DaveJ wrote:

Okay...

So the PSF-2, the second generation of the KYB air fork, is like an open bath KYB fork without the spring.

Meaning, it has a semi closed cartridge on the bottom with the rod connecting to the cap.

Doing a fork seal and bushing replacement would just mean removing the cap and separating the tubes. Doing a full oil change would mean removing the cartridge and that means the right tool for removing the base bolt (base valve assembly) as well as holding the cartridge. Both are shown in this photo.

The thing with the t-handle tool is that it's a very deep socket that needs to accommodate the height of the seal head and rod.

I'll post some additional photos after this one...

Awesome info thank you. Who makes that T-Handle? We just went ahead and ordered the Honda OEM one but my dad plans on keeping this bike for awhile and it will save us money in the long run.

It should be a 27mm hex. Buy a socket, cut it and weld it to a steel tube, and drill a hole for the t. Done!

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. ...more

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. Buy a socket, cut it and weld it to a steel tube, and drill a hole for the t. Done!

This is a guy that knows how to get stuff done.

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. ...more

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. Buy a socket, cut it and weld it to a steel tube, and drill a hole for the t. Done!

DaveJ wrote:

This is a guy that knows ...more

DaveJ wrote:

This is a guy that knows how to get stuff done.

I've spent enough money with snap on over the years. Lol

Keith72 wrote:

Improper fork alignment ...more

Keith72 wrote:

Improper fork alignment can cause fork seals to leak prematurely.

This needs to be drilled into everyone's brain.

It's so true that I even wrote a book about it.

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. ...more

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. Buy a socket, cut it and weld it to a steel tube, and drill a hole for the t. Done!

It's 30mm actually, and we picked up the materials to make our own tool! Photos to come.

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. ...more

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. Buy a socket, cut it and weld it to a steel tube, and drill a hole for the t. Done!

hubbardmx50 wrote:

It's 30mm actually, and we ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

It's 30mm actually, and we picked up the materials to make our own tool! Photos to come.

Right on. I've made several tools, so that i have the $ for the really spendy stuff.

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. ...more

m21racing wrote:

It should be a 27mm hex. Buy a socket, cut it and weld it to a steel tube, and drill a hole for the t. Done!

hubbardmx50 wrote:

It's 30mm actually, and we ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

It's 30mm actually, and we picked up the materials to make our own tool! Photos to come.

m21racing wrote:

Right on. I've made ...more

m21racing wrote:

Right on. I've made several tools, so that i have the $ for the really spendy stuff.

Yeah, and also being too afraid and lazy to perform your own maintenance will wreck your wallet if you ride a lot; we ride every weekend. I'm really good at changing tires and being able to do forks will be a nice addition to my mechanical skills! And also save me $

She’s out! Instead of welding the Honda OEM damper attatchment we just used a steel bar and held it all together with a big crescent wrench. Came out easy.

My next issue: The manual does not show how to service the cartridge. Unreal!

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual does not show how to service the cartridge. Unreal!

No it does not. I made a cartridge holder out of wood, as to not damage the surface while disassembling it.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual does not show how to service the cartridge. Unreal!

What is it that you think you need to service?

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual does not show how to service the cartridge. Unreal!

By the way, never ever never ever clamp the cartridge.

You can use a cartridge holding clamp (shaped aluminum clamps to the OD of the cartridge) as a delicate third hand, (which you don't need) but never as anything that you would ever apply any force to.

The only force applied would be to the base valve assembly and the seal head. Nothing else.

I have a rule that no cartridge tube is ever clamped. Even just bumping into it can cause damage.

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual ...more

hubbardmx50 wrote:

My next issue: The manual does not show how to service the cartridge. Unreal!

DaveJ wrote:

What is it that you think ...more

DaveJ wrote:

What is it that you think you need to service?

LOL my dad just said the same thing to me. Wow these forks are easy...