Suspension valving. Why so expensive?

I have done my own thinking it would be cheaper. I used Race Tech Gold Valves. It is not hard to do, although it might take some specialized tools. In the end it just ended up taking a ton of time getting it dialed. These days I barely have enough time to ride, so tinkering with valving is not going to happen.

I am happy to pay my local EVO guy to do it for me.

Ya i think its bullshit how much they charge. These local suspension shops are all backed by either race tech or k tech or some other big name that does all the work on maybe a suspension dyno and/ or does track testing or possibly even just track testing. They may not even do that and just use trbal knowledge from the past and just throw a revalved stack and call it done. So that data just flows on down to them in regards of what shim changes to make. All these local shops do is take that knowledge and criticism from people they revalve suspension for and make minor tweaks from there to make it super exactly perfect when from the suspension company it was probably 90-95% there of what we all need. These local suspension guys must have to pay the suspension company mucho money for how much they charge for the base revalved stack cause revalving a fork or shock is not hard if you know the stack. 

I don't think that a KTM or a Honda or something would send a bike to market with suspension that wouldn't be atleast 75% perfect for the average B rider. I would think as welll as long as you buy a woods bike for woods riding and not a motocross bike for woods riding for example it shouldn't be that crazy of a change to revalve your bike. 

I think if the average person invested some time tweeking some shims it would be good enough to make an individual happy.

I was recently shopping around for suspension revalve on my 22 ktm 350sxf. I was looking for prices on either kyb inserts or wp 6500's with revalve as well as revalve and bladder kit for the shock. I also wanted to get opions and hear feedback on both options.
 

At first I wanted to support the tuners that were local and/or few hours from me. First I got prices from them and then began calling the more high profile tuners that ive used in the past like Enzo, FC as well as other big name companies. What shocked me was that the small local tuners were asking the same prices as the more reputable tuners. I have a hard time spending $2700 with a local guy who doesnt have a huge reputation or same amount of knowledge as the more reputable high profile tuners. I know I can spend $2700 with the more reputable companies who are really investing time and offering optional in house made parts, that help performance as opposed to the smaller/local guy who is just changing up the shim stack and telling me that its good enough.

In the end, i decided to go with REP and the 6500's. I went with them as they are WP specialists with a great reputation. They also make there own "in house" performance parts and really invest into testing and tuning. I cant wait to try out the suspension in the spring time.

A giant ship’s engine failed. The ship’s owners tried one ‘professional’ after another but none of them could figure out how to fix the broken engine.

Then they brought in a man who had been fixing ships since he was young.
He carried a large bag of tools with him and when he arrived immediately went to work. He inspected the engine very carefully, top to bottom.

Two of the ship’s owners were there watching this man, hoping he would know what to do. After looking things over, the old man reached into his bag and pulled out a small hammer. He gently tapped something. Instantly, the engine lurched into life. He carefully put his hammer away and the engine was fixed.

A week later, the owners received an invoice from the old man for $10,000.

What?! the owners exclaimed. “He hardly did anything..!”.

So they wrote to the man; “Please send us an itemised invoice.”

The man sent an invoice that read:

Tapping with a hammer………………….. $2.00

Knowing where to tap…………………….. $9,998.00

Effort is important but experience and knowing where to direct that effort makes all the difference.

It should be the first thing you do to a bike!  I see people pay 1k for an exhaust, then 250 for customer stickers, then ti bolts, seat covers, etc.  Suspension is the 1#, most important part of the cycle.  Then get the other fun things.  As for the cost, I am shocked its not more.  

How much do you think it costs those affiliate shops to get that info from Racetech or whatever?  I've been to Racetech and Pro Circuit. They are in large buildings with lots of equipment and people working there. I agree, it is expensive but I know a guy doing UTV suspension out of his garage and he isn't cheap. If you want a revalve and don't have the special tools and know how it's going to cost you. 

We are in an expensive sport.

this is not an expensive sport, its honestly a hobby, so you pay to play.  Get a sports car, go do a few track days, its 2 to 3k a weekend. honestly, this is not expensive, its just that the bulk of dirt bike guys are young, and have limited funds, so unless you have support, or family aiding in the hobby, most young kids and young riders just dont have the money.  so instead of the the bling, buy good gear, and get your suspension done, then buy the rest

There are already a ton of "suspension guys" who really have no idea what they're doing and just wreck valve stacks and make bikes dangerous. 

We don't need another one of those, keep your day job.  

As someone in a construction trade it’s frustrating for someone to judge your cost on a skill that the customer couldn’t even remotely replicate. 
 

I wish lawyers and doctors received this level of scrutiny. 

It’s not rocket science.  I’ve worked at  2 pretty well Known suspension companies . You’d be surprised but 2 of the ones I have seen personally use Race tech valve shim stacking guides.  They do not replace your shimms.
They re stack them. Sometimes they made add one or two but it’s the order. Think of an arrow head design smashing down into oil. If it’s pointy it will go into the oil easier then get progressively slower as the larger shims slash into the oil.  If you reverse the arrow Design the shim will fold as it hits the oil making a lot of resistance. This is for pro speed or SX.

As a guide race tech shim stacking us the gold standard they have plush firm and hard settings.  Roughy.  Suspension tuners like Pro Circuit snd work’s connection im certain have thier own designs.   But the fly by night local guys all have race tech stacking guides. I Went to a race tech class 20 years ago. It’s not a whole lot different today.

The bigger the shim the more it’s designed to fold up. The smaller the harder it is to fold them. Fluid dynamics are fluid dynamics. Honda ditched air  forks because they suck. There’s infinite possibilities considering there’s 30-50 shims for compression and rebound.  You can disassemble your forks and see your shim stacks.  

They cost is in getting it right and in order to revalue your shock you have to grind off a fail safe retainer that keeps your shock from literally exploding and causing one kid to get killed. It was a 2  letter and 1 number company  hint hint.   That since got found negligent and was sued out of existence. I’m not going to say  the company name. If you know then you know.  Who ever re valves a shock is modifying OEM fail safe to keep the nut on the end of the shock shaft.  After seeing it happen and the results of the kids shock falling apart his swing arm went past full travel and when he landed it was like he landed on a 4X4 instead of compressing and rebounding dampened.  Poor kid.   I’ll never re re valve a shock again. Unless the nut is tack welded back onto the shock shaft. I seen guys use red lock tight only.  Me I’d prefer a tack weld and Ford yellow lock tight.  If you’ve ever taken a Ford grade 8 bolt off that has yellow thread lock it’s almost as good as welding 

All  said and done the worst thing I hear is when guys saw Jimmy Johns re valved my suspension hes the best ever !   Really ? Compared to what ?  It’s only relevant when you get 2 of 3 companies to set up the same bike. Then compare. I’m 49. I’ve had JM.

Pro Circuit and Pro Action all set up bikes in had CR 250s granted they were consecutive years not the same bike.  But even more important is that you ARE HONEST about you weight and speed. If you tell a guy you’re a pro and he sets it up so when you ride your novice speed you’d absolutely hate it !!!   Being honest and yiur preference matter more than anything. That being said. Pro action worked well for me.  
 

Think about when magazines Guys test RVs bikes the all say the same. It will move of your charging but if you cost if will take your teeth.   Out.  Be honest about what you ride 85% of the time and you will get something better for you.  That Being said RV says he rides his 24 YZ450 stock. Just puts his bars on it. Unless you’re heavy like me or super light. Most bikes work good enough for 75% of riders today. This isn’t a 1994 RM 125 that was set up for 145lb kid off an 85.  And im 215. It’s going to bottom out when I sit on it 

No offense but I don’t want the guy with no special tools doing anything on my stuff. Sounds like a hack. I’ve worked for suspension shops. I’ve got all the kyb and showa tools for disassembly and seal drivers ect. I do suspension service on thd side I have a nitrogen regulator for bladders  getting the nitrogen bottle and getting it filled was waaay mor time and investment that buying the tools from race tech. I change for oil and seals shocks too but I do not re valve anyone’s suspension. It’s a whole mother can of worms. Most guys start calling me as soon as they drop it off. I tell them it will be done tomorrow afternoon I’ll have them back at that time.  I don’t work well getting hounded by guys looking over my shoulder. If they are in Dallas like 3 hours away. I tell them to go see a movie for get dinner I’ll have it done in 3 hours. I do.