Hi guys & happy 4th of July to you all!
A lot of you all know me on here already as having a bunch of YZ250 items as I had a ton of parts for sale. I’ve owned 4 of them over the past few years (03,05,06,11) so one tends to accumulate stuff over time... 😁 I still have the 2006 as well as the 2011 so after seeing so many of the sweet builds you guys crank out I wanted to do eventually do one with my 2011. Why not right, I mean with 2 little ones running about (2.5 years old and a 1 year old) plus my 2 bikes that don’t get dirty nearly enough I CLEARLY did not need a big project or another bike. So naturally I somehow came home with this 2020 yz250 a few days ago:
Overall it was a very good deal given the current market for 2 strokes. The bike was mostly stock but came with a few nice parts already. However to keep from literally turning into this guy:
I have decided to go all in, full tilt, no holding back with this one!!! My current plan with a big budget is to use the following parts listed below. The goal is to get it as close to or under 200lbs & over 52hp+ it should no doubt make for a seriously fun ride!
Titanium Raptor pegs
Titanium custom made peg mounts
Titanium rear brake rotor
Titanium front 270mm brake rotor
Titanium axles F & R
Titanium spokes (yes that’s right, big story behind these)
Titanium pivot bolt
Titanium linkage bolts (all 3)
Titanium custom made bushings with DLC coating
Titanium shock spring
Titanium seat brackets
Titanium engine studs bolts
Titanium engine bolts
Titanium hardware - basically every nut & bolt!
CRM carbon fiber subframe
CMT carbon fiber gas tank
Carbon fiber clutch Lightspeed
Carbon fiber ignition cover Lightspeed
Carbon fiber fork guards Lightspeed
Carbon fiber chain guide Lightspeed
Carbon fiber exhaust bracket
Carbon fiber head stays
Carbon fiber power valve cover
Carbon fiber case saver
Carbon fiber master cylinder covers
Carbon fiber sprocket cover
Guts Ultra Light racing seat foam
Gripper seat cover
Hinson clutch
TMR Ported race cylinder
TMR Modified squish band head
TMR Modified crank & rod (drilled, balanced & DLC coated)
Undercut tranny
Custom made SS cone pipe
PC Ti2 silencer
Custom laced hubs & Excel rims
PSF1 Enzo Racing Kit suspension forks (also have PC kit spring forks with billet lugs as well to try)
22mm Luxon split triple clamps
Kit shock, DLC shaft & new Enzo compression valve
YZF swing arm & hub conversion
Renthal Fat32 bars & ProTaper ACF bars (depends on which feel better)
Works connection billet perch & lever with titanium hardware
ARC brake lever with titanium hardware
Motostuff SS brake lines F & R
Talon sprocket
EK 3D MXR chain (my favorite)
various DLC & TiN coated parts
Plus a few other little surprises along the way... 😎
Thanks everyone & stay tuned!
nialdarragh176@gmail.com
Killer build !!!!
GU - you mean something like this:
I think I may have been one of the first to get them as I jumped on these quick from ya. Thanks for making them👍🏻
Thanks CS271, I am ready to FINALLY get on this.
Zesiger, I hear ya man 🤣 Maybe we can motivate each other. BTW I think I need to txt you again for the specs of that axle as I can’t find my notes where I wrote them down but I think I may have packed it away with the titanium bar so I would have it when ready.
The Shop
I am still waiting for a few things to show up before I fully rip into this one so I decided to play with & test out my new cerakote setup. I am also in the process of rebuilding my 2006 Yz250 so while it is all apart I coated the head & piston dome then put an anti friction coating on the skirts. I had a used Wiseco that was in great shape but had a little bit of wear around the window & exhaust so it was a perfect candidate for a test trial. It felt a little weird scuffing up the head & dome so the cerakote would stick but I understand why it had to be done. Overall I am very pleased the way it turned out so I want to have it back together & fired this weekend.
Cleaned
Polished
Drilled
Heated tip for bluing 😎
I’ll use this one on my 2011 yz250. The 2020 will get the Ti2
Deccr250 is pretty much on point (thank you sir!) but lets expand on it just a little bit more.
First & foremost this is not standard Cerakote used to color your gun & protect it from rusting. This particular stuff I am using is a high temp ceramic formulation specifically designed for engine & piston coating. The technology started off in the 70's, gained some traction in racing in the 80's, then the industrial market really got into it in the 90's (this is the field I operate in) & away we go. As time has progressed the formulations & applications have gotten better & easier. Then a lil company called NIC Industries made the Cerakote coating a household name for “special coatings” just like roller blades & Band Aids did.
Now as for how all this pertains to 2 strokes... We all know that these single cylinder air pumps we all love so much run best right on the ragged edge of "lean". In 2 stroke race engines a lot of guys want to be right on the edge of a lean condition. That’s where the most horsepower is available but it is riding a fine line. A lean mixture runs hotter and if the fuel mixture is set correctly for a fully hot engine, you’ll get full power at full working temps. However, most of us are not professional tuners with professional equipment necessary to check & monitor EGT so we typically run the risk of it being too lean before it is fully hot so the engine will either melt a piston or seize the piston in the cylinder wall. Most race teams aren’t worried about long tern life expectancy or melting a piston as most of they’re engines are rebuilt after one race anyway so they can walk the line a little closer than the average Joe such as myself. Enter ceramic coatings :-] They do 2 basic things for us:
1 - they form a protective layer to keep the heat out of the piston & keep from melting a hole in the top of the piston causing a mechanical failure
2 - they help the piston be more efficient with a ceramic coating which improves the device's heat reflection and transfers part of the detonation energy into the fuel burning phase. Basically out of the parts & more into the combustion chamber.
The two stroke piston sees the heat of combustion on every stroke without the benefit of a cool intake stroke or oil spray like their thumper counterparts. In addition the two stroke cylinder is full of ports that attract heat, especially on the exhaust side where the hot gases flow directly over the piston crown on their way out of the cylinder, building even more heat in the cylinder near the exhaust port. This high heat can burn the little lubrication that the piston skirts see. Another reason why the piston can be a weak link in the ole smoker.
So in my application think of the coated head & coated piston crown as the bread in a combustion sandwich. They hold in & keep all the good stuff from spilling out. You want to get as much down your throat in this power meal without getting your fingers dirty 😆
Please understand I am totally simplifying things here for the sake of a basic explanation so please don't beat me up on the details. I just want to try & explain it as best I can & I am no teacher or engineer 👍🏻
Obviously these situations are bad & the coating will “help” to keep these from occurring. As you can see it won’t “keep” it from happening though.
To be perfectly honest I monitor my stuff pretty closely & keep up with routine maintenance so the likelihood of me going too lean & burning a hole through the post crown is not very likely. I am however quite curious to see if I can go slightly leaner with a power improvement & since this is for my 3rd bike I have no problem rolling the dice on this one. I have a few different cylinders to play with if so... 😎
Now the anti friction coating on the skirt, different story & why you even see this stuff coming stock now on a lot of pistons.
Pit Row
So while I am waiting for more parts to show up I needed to get the 2006 put back together & sold. Plus I really needed the garage space back with the trans am coming home & I wouldn’t mind some extra money. Mission accomplished!
Posted it Wednesday morning & sold it that afternoon for $300 more than I thought I would get for it. Unreal what clean good bikes are selling for down here these days! More titanium is now on order... hahahaha!!! 😎
I see you are just south of me so where do you ride? Have you tried mx74? FTT is opening back up soon too 😎
224.8Lbs
This was with oil in the tranny but I drained most of the fuel out. At most a quart or so was left. If I can get her below 205 that would be awesome! Goal is 200 but it is going to take a lot of $$$ & ideas I thing to get those last few lbs...
FYI - VitalMX members get a discount on all orders. Here is the code I found to use: vitalmx5offjb
Went ahead & mounted the tank hold down screw & seat button. Funny how ya just have to get the cool stuff no one will see.
On the Rtech stuff the shrouds are held on to the tank with self tappers or sheet metal screws. You can get metric titanium machine screws all day long but these were a challenge to find. I went ahead & sourced some super trick ones though. Standard M8 flange head with a star profile & even drilled them out to save weight 😎
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